As suggested, I went the to triple belly construction with a steel handle for this bullwhip. Also used hockey tape bolsters and decorated this one.
Thong consists of 6 and 8 plait bellies with a 16 plait overlay. Knots are both 5 x 4 turks heads. Butt knot is set with dilluted Elmer's Glue up to about the bottom third of the handle. The Glue solidified the knot nicely, with only a slight color change of the knot, most noticeably in the Gun metal.
I see improvement! You might want to make a longer cracker, I usually make mine about eight inches. I also would suggest you get artificial sinew for bindings. Here's a link to what I use. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sinew-Natural-C ... 35bccd8e7b
I don't know how that is for price, I just grabbed a listing similar to what I usually get. Shop around, but it's definitely a must for a whipmaker, in my opinion.
I've only done 4 in 3 months so far, granted school was ridiculously busy in the last month. I like the three layer construction, as it seems to build a wonderful ratio of taper between the transition and tip, although after doing the first three in a single belly and overlay, it seemed quite thick. I doubt I'd want anything shorter than 6 foot with a three layer design for a bullwhip. I'll probably try the 8,12, 16 after I order some more cord, but for the next whip I have just enough to the same as this one, except in Coyote and Teal.
As for the whip itself, the transition isn't as stiff as I would like, but it is still acceptable and should last a reasonable span of time. It also is a bit handle heavy even with a 2 foot strand of BBs. Despite it's faults the whip itself cracks easily with very little effort, and actually flies to where the wrist points it, rather than flopping around like my first and second ones.
Thanks Gabe, I have been using the sinew for binding. I picked mine up at a local Hobby Lobby in 300 yards for $15, which I figure is worth it since shipping is ridiculous if you order online. Yeah the cracker is short, but I haven't replaced it since it hasn't worn out yet (500+ cracks on that one). I used the sinew for the cracker since it outlasts the nylon line I have, and the nylon guts from paracord, at the expense of a slight reduction in crack volume, probably because I don't make the sinew crackers long enough.
Last edited by Devin Bauer on Thu 21. Jun 2012, 03:53, edited 1 time in total.
If you have a Tandy Leather nearby stop in and get some artificial sinew before the end of June. It is on sale now for about $12.00 for a 1/2 lb. roll. It took me about a dozen whips to use up that much.
For crackers I use 207lb bonded nylon thread. It is less than $10.00 on Ebay. You could use 138lb thread also. It wears really well and a large spool will last you almost forever. I use about 3 yrds per cracker. I tie the ends together forming a loop. I then twist this loop into a single strand. Fold the strand in half and twist the other direction. Tie a knot halfway down and trim the loose end.
Here's wishing you find time for the things you want to do, and for the things you need to do.
We see ourselves in our children and hope for a better future.
Look good to me.. I have been using the afticial sinew as well here adn can get it at micheals and Hobby lobby no tandy with in 3 hour drive of here that I have been able to find but I find that I put layers of it right from teh core up it works better start a layer at the core from the handle to the bb and then agaion each layer as I build on it helps.. still working on my own to make it better but the laste one worked out nice..
Crackers there is a topic on it here of what people use.. but there a lot of good stuff I picked up some nylon packing string at office depot for 2 dollars that works great and I keep seral arond just in case.
Thanks guys. Unfortunately the closest store for me is Hobby lobby, I am not even aware of a Tandy store within 50 miles. Also, for Sinew crackers, they are stiff so they seem to work better if they are under 6 inches.
I've tried sinew for crackers, I wouldn't suggest it. Nylon and unwaxed polypro are the MUCH better option.
Also, just call tandy and have them ship it to you. I have 3 tandy's about 50 miles away that I have been to a couple times, but more often I've had them ship stuff to me. For instance, whenever artificial sinew is on sale, ( like it is now ) I usually buy two or three rolls of it. I may even buy a couple now, even though I still have 1.5 left.
But it is quite rare that they have it in the right size. You could use size 138 like I do nylon, and I'm considering it. The stuff I've used though is much thicker so you don't need to do 3 loops, like with size 138.
should be fairly easy to find at a hardware store or even better a farmer/livestock supply kinda place. It's what they use for bailing hay, sometimes called bailing twine
Baling twine used here in the United States breaks down in sunlight. I've heard that it does not make good poppers. Bonded nylon thread works well, but stuff from the sewing store is too thin. Thickest I could ever find locally in stores was upholstry thread. It worked but wore out quickly. Get some 135 or 207lb bonded thread online. Less that $10 on Ebay.
Word of caution if your thinking it, many fishing stores carry kevlar thread for fly tying. DON'T! Kevlar will last you forever but it is hard to cut and on the end of a whip is very dangerous. Even coming back towards you at a slow speed it will cut skin. I tried kevlar once but will never use it again.
Jeff
Here's wishing you find time for the things you want to do, and for the things you need to do.
We see ourselves in our children and hope for a better future.
I've used bailing twine for quite a while now. Never had a problem, it looks exactly like the poly crackers joe strain sells. The stuff I have makes for a fairly thick cracker but it's fine for bullwhips.
Here is the 5th whip which was sitting around for the last 3 weeks begging to have the overlay plaited.
7 foot bullwhip, in Coyote Brown and Teal
Basic construction consisting of 3 bellies in 6, 8, and 16 plait with binding and hockey tape bolsters. I only used the 6,8.16 since I didn't order enough cord. Stiffness is still off, and it doesn't transition as smoothly as it should, but still performs acceptably. Should mention that it does have rim tape for stiffness, which I don't care for the result. I'll stick with traditional sinew binding in the future and it produces better result for me and a gradual stiffness for the whip.
The heel knot is my first crude 7x6 Turks head in Gold with a 5x4 Turks head in goatskin above it and a goatskin wristloop below it.
Last edited by Devin Bauer on Fri 3. Aug 2012, 03:05, edited 1 time in total.
but I find that I put layers of it right from teh core up it works better start a layer at the core from the handle to the bb and then agaion each layer as I build on it helps.. still working on my own to make it better but the laste one worked out nice.. 
