Second and Third Whips

Le'me see... Whips, whips and - whips!
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Devin Bauer

  Second and Third Whips

Post by Devin Bauer »

Here are my second and third crude attempts at a whip so far, suggestions as seen fit would be nice.

This is the second whip,
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A 6' bullwhip in OD and Black. The handle is a 3/4" unknown dowel rod with a shotgun shell but added onto the end. Guts consist of 4 strands twisted together, 3 staggered lengths of ungutted paracord and a 2' strand with zinc coated steel BB's (copper are too rough to slide through the paracord). Then a belly in 8 plait ending in 4 and a single strand running to the end of the whip, hence the stretching and slipping of strands near the end which I figured out after I finished the whip. Overlay is a 12 plait, with diamond plaiting over the handle. I didn't add enough binding and e-tape for bolsters and the transition so the whip is a bit lifeless, however the weight still allows it to crack without too much effort.

Here is the third, slightly better whip
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This whip has a crudely shaped maple handle (no access to a lathe, so a hunting knife it is!) with a shotgun shell on the end and 5x4 Turks head for the knob. Construction is similar to the second one with minor changes. The diamond plait covers the transition this time and is extremely tight there, this once also has considerably more binding and e-tape over the belly and tape over the core, one of the four core strands runs through the entire whip, and the belly is ended gradually to avoid the issue of the strands slipping over the drop such as the end of the second whip. Overall this whip has more life to it and performs decently, but cracks less readily as it has fewer BB's than the second whip.
Gabriel Burkey

 

Post by Gabriel Burkey »

You're on the right track! I just finished up my 37th whip (in about a year and a half) and I can tell you from experience, that the best way to get better is to keep doing it, and keep trying things. I found that experience is the best teacher, but you'll speed the learning curve a lot by asking specific questions. It looks good, just keep working at getting the taper to look good, and plait tightly. If you do those two things you will turn out great looking whips that will perform as well. Nice work and keep up the learning.
Gabriel Burkey

 

Post by Gabriel Burkey »

I should just add that for my handles I use 1/4" steel rod. I start my core from that and braid both bellies over the handle. That way I have a better handle to thong connection and can get the transition more solid. Nothing wrong with using wood, but I'm not sure how to tell you to get that transition stiffer that way.
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Robby Amper
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Post by Robby Amper »

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I think you're doing great! I also think, that Gabriel is right. Experience is the best teacher. Just go on, and every single whip will be better than the one before. To me the third whip looks much better than the second. Great job and - thanks for sharing the pics with us!

Robby
I have a screwdriver. I am Legend...
Devin Bauer

 

Post by Devin Bauer »

Thanks Rob, and yeah the third one is a definite improvement in feel and performance.
Gabriel, if I were to use a steel rod for the handle, 1/4" to 3/8" depending on what I can get a hold of, how would I approach the construction for the core, and the stiffening of the transition area? Also, if plaited tightly does the handle remain fairly hard to the touch, rather than squishy?
Jeremy McEachern

 

Post by Jeremy McEachern »

For most nylon bullwhips, they have 2 plaited bellies ( 8 and 12 plait ) then a 16 plait overlay. Maybe try that next time, it'll get you some more weight that's helpful with nylon, along with increasing the potential for pattern work on the handle ( which I wouldn't suggest getting into quite yet ).

Keep it up :)
Gabriel Burkey

 

Post by Gabriel Burkey »

I just attached my core to the end of the handle with either tape, or sinew, and plait the first belly, then bind like crazy, plait second belly, bind like crazy again, and then do the overlay. The handle will not be 'squishy' at all if plaited tightly. Like Jeremy said, I do my first belly of 8 strands (down to four). Second belly starts at 12 and goes down to four as well. Final overlay is 16 strand. If you use a larger diameter handle to start you may need more strands to cover, I'm not really sure.

Here's how I make my core. I take a strip of hockey stick tape and cut it as long as I want the core, lay it sticky side up. Then I take lead shot (no. 4, I think) and dribble it down the length of tape to get the amount of weight I want. Then roll the tape over on itself to cover the lead. I don't have my core go past the second belly, so there are always two layers of braiding around the tape core and I've never had a problem with lead coming out or anything like that. I do like that hockey stick tape as opposed to e-tape, since it's more of a fabric tape and will not break with time.
Devin Bauer

 

Post by Devin Bauer »

2 bellies and an overlay? I see why one would use the steel rod as a base then. Looks like I'll have to get more cord since I only have 200' each set aside for the next 2 whips. I did get a section of 5/16" steel rod to work with and I have some handles cut. Thanks for the info Jeremy, I wasn't aware of the three layer construction, my first three have consisted of a core, belly. and overlay. That explains why they have lacked the stiffness I would like to have in the whips
I like the shotbag method you mentioned Gabriel, I've been looking for a shotbag alternative for a nylon whip I might try it in the future if I can get a hold of some hockey tape and shot. Good to know that the squishy plaiting was a fault of mine and that tighter plaiting will fix it. Oh, for the shotbag do you further wrap for security, or is it just the tape folded over itself?
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Tyler Blake
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Post by Tyler Blake »

Hi Tex,
I think you show good improvement between the second and third whips also. It's a little hard to say from a picture, but the third whip looks like it has a stiffer transition. I also like the way you left part of the wood exposed. If you like the look of wood, here's a way you can combine your method with Braiding4fun's suggestion on the rod: Mark the center of the end of your dowel, and then very carefully drill a hole down the axis the same diameter as the rod. It's very important that you have it centered and straight because if you don't the rod and therefore the thong will come out of the wooden portion cockeyed and the balance will be all wonky. DO you have a router table? If you do, you could do a "stepped taper" on the dowel where each belly covers a little more of the wood so you have a smooth transition from the bare wood to the overlay. Oh yeah, I dig the shotgun shell too. :)
Yaprimascharif, Yahasanna Hadisany, elafinas tabachu, Dari chalemy elasin!
Devin Bauer

 

Post by Devin Bauer »

I was wondering if that was how a woody bullwhip was constructed, and yeah I love the look of a finished piece of wood, but without a wood lathe I would have to stick to my crooked shaping, although burnishing the wood with the square spine of a Buck 119 does a nice job and smoothing the wood. I do have access to a drill press, hand grinder, and hand drill, but not a router table. The third whip has the maple handle whittled down to about 1/4" for the belly, but again the handle itself is crooked and it throws the aim of the whip off because the energy isn't transferred as smoothly as it could be.
The transition of the third whip actually has proper binding over the belly of the whip, so it did turn out somewhat stiffer, but the binding really helped in giving the whip a curve of its own, whereas the second whip is still rope-like.
Besides my rambling, I love the suggestion as it makes perfect sense and would work out very nicely, have you done it before?. I did consider building a homemade wood lathe possibly following this design.
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Last edited by Devin Bauer on Sat 9. Jun 2012, 00:26, edited 1 time in total.
Gabriel Burkey

 

Post by Gabriel Burkey »

I don't bind the core, I just plait over it. In my experience two layers of tight plaiting over the tape wrapped shot will be more than secure.
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Tyler Blake
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Post by Tyler Blake »

I haven't done that exactly, I did something similar years ago when I was first learning. I haven't done a woody in a long time but I reckon that's how I would do it now.
Yaprimascharif, Yahasanna Hadisany, elafinas tabachu, Dari chalemy elasin!
Victor

 

Post by Victor »

I'm liking the ornament inlays that people are wrapping into the end of they're whips. And i your case Tex a shotgun shell..brilliant, love it. So now I think I'm going to have to hind something to wrap my whip around.

You guys are a bad influence on me...making me spend money I dont have :) :) :)
Devin Bauer

 

Post by Devin Bauer »

Well I just did the shotgun shell cause I had a couple empty shells lying around, and didn't feel like shelling out money for a concho. Gonna have to find another item to put on the but since no one in my family shoots 12 gauge shells normally, we stick with 22's for pests and target shooting.
Jeremy McEachern

 

Post by Jeremy McEachern »

You can cover the heel of a nylon whip with a 12-16 strand flat braid. I've even heard of people starting their overlay with a flat braid and using that for the cover of their heel knot on nylon whips.

I think the shell fits that whip nicely though :)
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