Devin Bauer
- Robby Amper
- Member
- Posts: 4847
- Joined: Tue 30. Dec 2008, 20:40
- Location: Munich, Germany
- Contact:
Devin Bauer
.
This is the Gallery of Devin Bauer.
www.woodywhips.com
In the section: Whip Basics - The Video Reviews -
you will find a documentary on his work.
.
This is the Gallery of Devin Bauer.
www.woodywhips.com
In the section: Whip Basics - The Video Reviews -
you will find a documentary on his work.
.
I have a screwdriver. I am Legend...
Thank you very much Robby.
Here are my two favorite whips I have created to date,
7 foot Cup-style in Wenge and Darkbrown w/ a pair of black for the Whip exchange.
and of course, the Amper Special for the review in Black and Desert Ironwood,
As well as my favorite part of the medium, the transformation of the material.
The Desert Ironwood is the chunk of wood on the left side. The right is cocobolo.
Here are my two favorite whips I have created to date,
7 foot Cup-style in Wenge and Darkbrown w/ a pair of black for the Whip exchange.
and of course, the Amper Special for the review in Black and Desert Ironwood,
As well as my favorite part of the medium, the transformation of the material.
The Desert Ironwood is the chunk of wood on the left side. The right is cocobolo.
Last edited by Devin Bauer on Tue 26. Aug 2014, 01:50, edited 1 time in total.
- Roy Partin
- C Member
- Posts: 3471
- Joined: Thu 23. Jan 2014, 16:01
- Location: Red River County, Texas
- Contact:
- Robert Gage
- C Member
- Posts: 13353
- Joined: Fri 7. Feb 2014, 15:58
- Location: UK
Thanks everyone!
The Desert Ironwood is a fantastic wood to work with, but unfortunately pricey because of the small range of the wood and high demand, not to mention the tree doesn't produce much timber.
Jared,the rust is pretty good for mimicking worn leather, but I still find Dark brown to be my favorite for how it wears.
Enoch, there are actually quite a few woods that will sink in water. Many species are borderline and will depend on the exact specimen. Some pieces of cocobolo for example, will readily sink in water. Other woods that sink in water are Lignum Vitae, Leadwood, African Blackwood, Kingwood, Verawood, Quebracho (meaning Axe Breaker, and also the wood which the tannins for Veg-Tanned leather are primarily derived, along with Oak, Chesnut and a few others), Black Ironwood, Itin, and the list goes on and on.
The Desert Ironwood is a fantastic wood to work with, but unfortunately pricey because of the small range of the wood and high demand, not to mention the tree doesn't produce much timber.
Jared,the rust is pretty good for mimicking worn leather, but I still find Dark brown to be my favorite for how it wears.
Enoch, there are actually quite a few woods that will sink in water. Many species are borderline and will depend on the exact specimen. Some pieces of cocobolo for example, will readily sink in water. Other woods that sink in water are Lignum Vitae, Leadwood, African Blackwood, Kingwood, Verawood, Quebracho (meaning Axe Breaker, and also the wood which the tannins for Veg-Tanned leather are primarily derived, along with Oak, Chesnut and a few others), Black Ironwood, Itin, and the list goes on and on.
- Tyler Blake
- Member of the Ring
- Posts: 4152
- Joined: Sat 27. Feb 2010, 09:03
- Location: Mount Vernon, Washington
- Contact:
- Mario Desgronte
- Member
- Posts: 667
- Joined: Sat 10. Apr 2010, 19:28
- Location: Germany, Koblenz
- Roy Partin
- C Member
- Posts: 3471
- Joined: Thu 23. Jan 2014, 16:01
- Location: Red River County, Texas
- Contact:
Roy I use 60-150-320 grit sandpapers then abrasive mirlon pads at 320-1500-2500 grit. It is probably needlessly high for anything but the hardest of woods, but I do it all the same. I then load a small square of an old cotton t-shirt with some of the Kirk's Polishing Wax and rub it in semi-randomly across every surface of handle. That usually seals the grain and takes care of some of the smaller scratches that get missed. To finish I like clear shellac (NOT dewaxed) since it is a repairable finish, and the solvent is just alcohol, so it will not hurt you if you get some on your hands, and it is easy to strip should you screw something up, it is also a renewable resource and dries quite quickly though you will want to get it fully harden after the coatings are all done of course. Oh, because the solvent is alcohol it will lift some surface oils from oily woods and you'll see it on the rag/paper towel/etc, and a paper towel works well as an applicator as it leaves a dimpled surface finish that grips a little better than a smooth finish. Shellac is not as durable as polyurethane but I think the pros outweigh the cons for me. The shellac will be very shiny after application and it can be knocked down with a buffing from a rough cloth or very high grit pad/steel wool. Do not use a buffing wheel on shellac, it will overheat and gum the finish into a black glob that is a nightmare to remove...
Thank you very much Joe, from what I have seen your work looks really good as well.
Thank you very much Joe, from what I have seen your work looks really good as well.
Last edited by Devin Bauer on Thu 11. Sep 2014, 14:43, edited 1 time in total.
- Roy Partin
- C Member
- Posts: 3471
- Joined: Thu 23. Jan 2014, 16:01
- Location: Red River County, Texas
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Thanks for all that explanation Devin. All that should certainly lead to a wonderful finish. I've had several complaints about handles being too slick for work use. These were all cowboys with sweaty hands. I'm now stopping at 600 grit and then melting the beeswax in with a heat gun. It has a slightly tacky grip now. So far this is working for me although it doesn't leave quite as beatiful finish as yours
He died for me, I'll live for him